Why Le Marche
When we decided that we were selling up in the UK and moving to Le Marche, everyone said "WHERE THE HELL IS THAT?" As it happens Le Marche is not that far from Rome if you could fly over the Appenines from the Mediterranean to the Adriatic coastline. It has long been the chosen holiday destination for wealthy Italians, who prefer the cooling breezes of the mountains and the tranquillity of the National Parks and local farming landscapes. Hence the old fashioned splendour of some of the coastal resorts like Recanati, Grottamare and San Benedetto.

Le Marche pronounced "Markay" translates into English as 'the Marches' and is set on the eastern side of central Italy between the Adriatic Sea and the high Apennine mountains and is unspoilt, undiscovered and much of it remains untouched by the ravages of mass tourism. Travellers who are looking for the unspoilt Italy will truly appreciate the scenery and culture of Le Marche, steeped in history with many archaeological sites and ancient towns that are being restored. There are places here where time really has stood still and compared to its central Italian sisters, Tuscany and Umbria the culture is very relaxed, as are the people. The area has not become overpriced by tourism and you will find that a smattering of Italian is helpful as not many of the locals speak English.

Set in the heart of this beautiful region with the river valleys of Chienti and Potenza, the Adriatic coastline and the gentle slopes of the Appenine mountains which reach to the Sibylline National Park, Le Marche has much for you to explore. You must experience the crystal clear waters of Lake Fiastra set amongst the mountains - discover the open air opera theatre in Macerata, the Roman amphitheatre in Urbisaglia, take a trip to Rome, Perugia or Assissi, there is so much here in the region to discover, we doubt you will have time. If you’d like a more active break there is the opportunity to ski/snowboard from Jan to March, try your hand at climbing, walking, mountain biking, hunting, fishing, riding, diving, quad bikes or head for the Adriatic and various watersports – wind or kite surfing.

For those who have a more leisurely break in mind, simply wander through the ancient walled town of San Ginesio or see centro storico (the ancient, restored old centre) in Sarnano and try some of the fabulous local produce – markets are wonderful with everything from shoes to salami. There’s plenty of great architecture to photograph or opportunities for artists.

The countryside is ever a delight for once the snows leave, blossom appears on the trees, fields of poppies abound in May, before Sunflowers in July. Everywhere is lush and green with ancient hilltop towns perched above the valleys. Birds of prey teach their young to fly and fireflies flicker across the fields at night. You may even be fortunate enough to see the odd wild boar or even a family of porcupines on your way home.

One interesting point. Le Marche takes its name from the previous Marquees, who were the Papal tax collectors in times gone by. Not the most popular visitors to any household, as they had the habit or arriving at supper time, when they knew everyone would be at home. There is a saying here "Better death at your door than a Marchigiane" so you can guess the status of their popularity!

A little bit of history
There are several prehistoric settlements in the province, whose history can be split into five main periods.

Pre Roman or Picena
Probably of Sabine origin the name comes from the Italic populations of Indoeuropean origin, who settled in the regions at the end of the 5th century BC.

Barbarian
From the 5th century to the 8th century AD (476-756) the Goths, the Longobards and the Franks occupied the region successively; during the 6th and 7th century villages situated in the plains, that were strategically exposed, were abandoned or destroyed. These were replaced by parish churches and centuries later abbeys and convents. It was during this period that new Medieval towns began to be constructed on hilltops, which started the infrastructure and beginnings of routes connecting mountains, hills and the coast.

Medieval and Papal
From 756 to 1860 (year of the unification of the new Italian state) there was a reorganisation which saw the beginning of the ecclesiastic period concerning bishops and abbots who at first were responsible for political and military power. They were later replaced by the Seigniniories. As from the middle of the 15th century, the political and civil life of Macerata and of the towns in the surrounding area fell under the protection and authority of the Papal state and consequently became dependent on Rome for all its decision making, whether , social or economic. Towns that survive to this day have resisted and gone well beyond the political constitution of provincial unity. The vast variety of dialects still spoken in the province today stands to confirm this.

Post Unification and Contemporary
As from 1860, year of the constitution of the province of Macerata, made the city the provincial capital.

Culture
There are 3000 years of history in this territory where numerous sites provide evidence of prehistoric human Palaeolithic and Neolithic settlements, saving us memories of past civilisations which have shaped the present character of the Marche region. Historians and archaeologists have been able to piece together information and findings from many sites to provide us with a taste of Marche’s history. There are the settlements of the Picena, Roman and Barbaric civilisations, 57 historical town centres of Centri Storici, with numerous abbeys, 50 castles and fortresses, patrician villas and some 70 art galleries with both archaeological and "theme" museums, all of which have played their part in giving up their rich history.

Situated in the heart of the region that has been home to Gentile da Fabriano, Raffaello, Bramante, Pergolesi and Rossini, the province of Macerata has jealously preserved the highest examples of Gothic painting in Le Marche, from the frescos by the Giottosques painters of the chapel of San Nicolas in Tolentino to the frescos of the schools of painting of San Severino and Camerino, schools that paved the way to people like Gentile of Fabriano. Renaissance is present with the extraordinary figures of Giovanni Boccati and Girolamo di Giovanni from Camerino, who contributed, together with the Venetian painters Carlo and Vittore Crivelli and their school of painting, in giving a distinguishing mark and influencing the Adriatic culture in Renaissance Italy. Significant is the presence of the 16th century painters Lorenzo Lotto in the province, who left several works of art, and the activity of the painters of Caldarola.

Other famous inhabitants of Marche are Alberico Gentile of San Ginesio and U Gronzio of international law, both precursors and campaignesr of human rights. Matteo Ricci of Macerata was the first to divulge and make the Chinese language, grammar and culture known to the western world, whilst humanist, Francesco Filelfo of Tolentino also made his mark. Poet and scholar Annibal Caro of Civitanova was famous in his time and Giacomo Leopardi of Recanati, one of the greatest poets of modern times.

Other well respected figures were Guiseppe Tucci of Macerata, a scholar of oriental studies who reached World fame and the famous tenor, Beniamino Gigle. In the ecclesiastic world, there were several figures who had important roles in the government of the Papal State, among whom we find the Pallotta Cardinals of Caldarola and Pope Pius VIII of Cingoli.

There are two universities in the territory, that of Macerata and Camerino.

Music and Theatre play a huge role in Marche with many productions, none more important than the Sferisterio open air opera theatre in Macerata.

Traditional and Artistic Handicrafts
Typical of the region is the working process of leather, paper making, wickerwork, furniture making, restoration of antique furniture, terracotta, pottery, wrought iron, hand made textiles, stone and marble. Every year there is an important antique and handicraft market which takes place annually in Sarnano. There is an antique and handicraft market every fourth weekend of the month in Tolentino. In Treia you will find a permanent exhibition of local handicrafts with other markets held in Camerino, Macerata, Potenza Picena and Civitanova. The region has also set up a school in Pollenza for the restoration of antique furniture.

Folklore and Popular Traditions
The summer plays host to many gatherings and performances to celebrate historic and folklore events. Apiro, Tolentino, Matelica, San Ginesio, Sarnano, Ascoli Piceno and Macerata (plus too many to mention) have costume parades, Pallios and Historical Re-enactments. Corsa all Spada – Camerino; Disfida del bracciale – Treia; Costume Parade – Cingoli; Palio della Castella– Caldarola; Palio dei Castelli – San Severino; Giostra del Saraceno, Battaglia di Fornarina, Palio del Pacca – San Ginesio; Serafino d’oro di Sarnano – Sarnano; Palio Quintana – Ascoli Piceno.

There are also Jazz and Pop concerts in the open air during summer months with Opera in Macerata and Pesaro. We try to post as many activites as possible once the programmes are published, so watch the website for updates.

We have listed some of the places of interest to visit in Le Marche, but there are far too many to mention, so here are just a few of our suggestions to try on your first visit.

Beaches in Le Marche
One of our favourite beaches is Portonovo, the first bathing resort on the Conero Riviera, here you will find wall to wall fish restaurants, a Napoleonic Tower and Fort, plus several hotels. Situated at the base of Monte Conero part of the National Park, this resort is overshadowed by the huge rocky outcrop which overlooks the bays and from the top you will have a fabulous view over the turquoise waters of the Adriatic. Mezzavalle, right next to Portonovo is really popular with locals, but beware of the steep climb down (an back up) to this unspoilt stretch of beach. Don’t leave it too late in the day during July and August, as due to the popularity, the Carabinieri often close the road, and unless you have a lunch reservation you won’t get down to the beach.

Sirolo is also a lovely spot, but we would recommend a visit here out of season. It’s a stunning spot at the base of Monte Conero in a sheltered rocky cove. Once you reach Numana, the sandy beaches from Marcelli stretch for miles and our favourites are Porta San Giorgio and San Benedetto del Tronto – be sure to visit these seaside towns on market day, in particular San Benedetto has a great designer market. Architecture along the coastline is remarkable with many Liberty style villas, Palazzos and other reminders to glamourous holiday destinations. All along this part of the Marche coastline are excellent fish restaurants. Incidentally there is a championship golf club at Numana which is well worth a visit, more information is available on http://www.conero.it

The other side of Ancona is Senegallia, a glorious seaside resort with designer shops and the Michelin Starred restaurant of Madonnnina del Pescatore.

For those that are interested there are many Diving Clubs along our particular stretch of coast, with excellent dives – its usually necessary to have your PADI qualification. Here are a few links: www.bluedeep.it, www.mamasa.it, www.seawolfdiving.it, www.centrosubmonteconero.com, www.casdiancona.it, www.komaros.it, www.monsub.it, www.clubsubacqueojesi.it, www.cimasub.net, www.css.3000.it, www.mamasa.it

Lakes, Mountains & Caves
There is much to offer throughout Le Marche none more so than the crystal clear waters of Lake Fiastra set amidst the Sibllini Mountains. Here you can walk, fish or simply sit and enjoy the scenery. There are many walks around Lake Fiastra and Mountains, and a detailed map with times can be found in the small village of San Lorenzo next to the Lake. This is a dammed lake which supplies many of the local towns and the dam itself is an incredible sight.

There are also the spectacular limestone Frasassi caves, www.frasassi.com (the largest underground cave system in Europe) the Furlo Gorge and the legend of Sibyllis, a witch who stopped to rest amidst the mountains on her way to the underworld, it is said she called men to their peril, and who gave her name to the mountain range. Head for Sassotetto if you want to try your hand at cross country, downhill skiing or snowboarding– lessons and equipment are available with lifts and passes from Sarnano. It is possible to organise climbing with notice and there is also white water rafting about an hours’ drive (both subject to weather conditions). Riding for experienced horsemen is available from La Querce, which will take you across slightly rough terrain at the base of the mountains. If you are not se experienced you can take a gentle ride at the stables close to the Abbadia di Fiastra (again subject to season and weather).

Churches, Castles, Galleries and Ruins of Le Marche
Take a trip to Urbisaglia to see the ruins of a Roman Amphitheatre or see the ancient Lazaretto in Ancona, used for quarantine purposes as well as military and which once was used as a Leper Colony. It is now restored and used for many important cultural and artistic events. Castles abound in the Marche Region, with Tolentino and Caldarola having two fine examples, both restored with Castello Pallotta dating back to the 9th century and La Rancia at Tolentino being host to a Battle re-enactment during May bi-annually. The Convent at Loreto is the place of pilgrimage for many as it is believed that the birthplace of Christ is alleged to have been transported by angels to this resting place. Tested by teams of experts the materials have been proven to come from the right place and time for the legend to be true. Most of the medieval hilltop towns of Le Marche boast more than one church, usually each church formed the place of worship for each of the Royal Families of the town. San Ginesio has the most amazing church situated in the main Piazza Gentile, with incredible works of art and sculpture as well as an even older crypt with frescoes.

There are many more places of interest throughout the region see website www.le-marche.com for details.

Notable Towns well worth a visit in Marche, Italy

What about the youngsters in Marche?

There are several outdoor clubs that open in summer months, where you can dance the night away under the stars
Babloo
Gialu
Lolas for a mix of Latin, Club and 60/70’s
Maria Jose
Gato Blu

For music lovers, there are always concerts in season from Rossini Opera to The Sferisterio in Macerata, Jazz in Fano and Ancoa and many, many village festivals where you can sit in the Piazza sipping a cold drink, whilst listening to Jazz, Opera or the occasional tribute band.

Local Information
Markets

Antiques

APPROXIMATE DRIVING TIME DEPENDANT ON WEATHER AND TRAFFIC
San Ginesio – 7 minutes
Gualdo – 20 minutes
Treia – 25 minutes
Pollenza – 20 minutes
Sarnano – 25 minutes
Urbisaglia & Roman Ruins – 25 minutes
Tolentino – 20 minutes
Macerata – 30 minutes
Adriatic Coastline – 40 minutes (Civitanova Marche and A14)
Sibillini Mountains & Lake Fiastra – 40 minutes
Frassassi Caves & Grottos – 1 hour 30 minutes
Ancona – Airport - 1 hour 20 minutes
Ancona - Piazza del Papa, Ferry Port, Duomo, Museum – 1 hour 40 minutes
Portonovo & Sirolo – 1 hour 20 minutes
Pescara – Airport – 1 ¾ hours
Ascoli Piceno – 1 ¾ hours
Assissi – 2 hours
Perugia – 2 hours
Rome – 3 hours
Bologna – 3 hours
Rimini – 2 hours 30 minutes
Visso – 50 minutes

Places to Visit in Marche - our recommendations

• The Adriatic coast
• The Sibillini mountains
• Lake Fiastra
• Rome (3 Hours), Perugia, Assissi
• Urbisaglia – Roman Ruins
• Macerata - open air opera theatre and shopping
• Sarnano at the base of the Sibillinis - the restored old town
• San Ginesio, Treia, Pollenza, old roman walled towns
• Visso – at the base of the mountains, Sibillini National Park
• Ancona the capital of Le Marche - culture, shopping,
  (if you wish you can even take a ferry to Greece)
• Designer shopping – Macerata, St Elpidio, Tolentino

Things to do in Marche

• House hunting
• Walking, Cycling, Climbing, mountain biking
• Skiing and snowboarding (Jan to Mar subject to snowfall)
• Wild boar hunting, Fishing (permits needed)
• Riding, Tennis
• Painting, photography (the photographic shop will develop your film while you are here)
• Sightseeing - Roman amphitheatre/ruins, churches, walled towns, galleries
• Designer shopping trips
• Cooking Italian style
• Watersports – wind/kite surfing, canoeing, white water rafting (subject to weather)